Sunbansiri Fishing Tour
Numerous cherished memories are deeply engraved in my mind and soul, originating from fishing expeditions along the Subansiri river, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. This majestic river flows from the mountains just north of Pathalipam, situated twenty miles east of North Lakhimpur. Within Assam, the Subansiri ranks as the second largest river. These fishing journeys transpired during the 1960s, marked by collaborations with the local Mising people, also known as Miris, to secure two or three teak dugout boats and a crew of four to six men to navigate the river's mountainous course. Sometimes, our trips entailed an early morning departure, a few hours of fishing, and a return by noon, given our proximity to where the river converged with the plains, just seven miles from our dwelling. Gazing north from our residence over the tall elephant grass, the twin mountain peaks stood as gateways through which the river flowed.
In 1950, a massive earthquake triggered an extensive landslide that briefly dammed the river. As hydrostatic pressure escalated, the obstruction gave way, leading to a deluge that extended all the way to North Lakhimpur, claiming numerous lives. While journeying upstream in the dugouts, we'd encounter areas where the earthquake-induced landslides had left mountains bereft of vegetation, resulting in a Himalayan segment termed "nunga parbut" or "naked mountains," as dubbed by the local populace. Venturing into the picturesque gorges within the mountains, we'd observe an iron ore-rich cliff on the western side, marked by red streaks from oxidation. According to Mising mythology, Krishna was believed to have slain a deer, dragging it across this very mountain face.
The most exhilarating segments of our expeditions were navigating the multitude of rapids that lay between our starting point and the mountain campsite. Amidst these rapids, we'd find the finest mahseer fishing, a powerful member of the carp family. The potency of these fish, thriving in the tumultuous rush of water, was astonishing. Conversing amidst some of the rapids was often difficult, given the sheer intensity of the surroundings. Silence prevailed, with most of our attention devoted to prayers for safe passage through the turbulent waters.
Our campsite nestled near the confluence of a mountain stream and the river, boasting sandy outcroppings. The footprints in the sand told stories of elephants, tigers, serow, deer, and wild red dogs sharing this enclave with us. A nearby stream pool became a focal point for leisurely moments, where banana tree trunks, ingeniously lashed together, served as rafts for moments of carefree drifting.
Upstream from the campsite, an extensive and dynamic set of rapids awaited, offering the prime location for our mahseer fishing. Wading into the swift currents, we'd seek stable footing before casting our lines adorned with artificial lures. Although current-day fishing practices lean towards using baited hooks, back then, the lures took two primary forms. A silver spoon lure demanded a reliable swivel to prevent line entanglement and twisting, while a wooden Basso-rino lure—originally intended for North American largemouth bass—emerged as an excellent choice. The Basso-rino, designed to float when line tension was released, proved ideal for rocky rapids due to its surface-skimming nature. Using a shallow-running plug was essential, as it prevented snagging on the rocks. Floating mouse-like lures were also employed with great success in capturing mahseer.
Mastering the art of casting and retrieving lures was pivotal to increasing mahseer-catching odds. Optimal strategy involved targeting large submerged rocks within the rapids. Casting slightly upstream and beyond the rock, the lure would be drawn through the calmer waters downstream, just past the rock. If no bites occurred after a few attempts, it was wise to shift focus to the next submerged rock.
A stream flowed into the upper part of the rapids, providing a hotspot due to the nourishment it introduced to the river. A memorable experience involved my father and I, frustrated by a fruitless morning of fishing in the rapids. To stir up sustenance from the stream into the river, we crafted a makeshift dam from rocks, spending an hour on this endeavor before indulging in our own lunch. Remarkably, my first cast into the rapids, at the point where the stream merged, resulted in a strike, initiating an afternoon of abundant catches.
The instant a mahseer is hooked, the unrelenting force becomes apparent, as the reel's song accompanies the line's swift departure, set against the backdrop of roaring rapids. Heartbeats quicken with exhilaration, while strategizing to subdue the vigorous fish takes center stage. Initial runs make it challenging to gauge the fish's size, given their formidable power that resists attempts to halt them. My father once battled a mahseer that surged downstream, depleting the reel's line supply until the gorge's end, where he had no riverbank left to maneuver. Despite the temptation to leap into the water and chase the fish, the presence of crocodiles, measuring up to fifteen to twenty feet, curbed any rash impulses. Encounters with these reptiles were not uncommon as we journeyed by dugout.
Should the opportunity arise, one should wholeheartedly embrace the chance to fish for mahseer. The optimal time varies across India, but post-monsoon periods are generally favorable. For Assam, the window spans October through December, though a brief wait after rain is advisable due to the resulting cloudy waters. While mahseer can be captured throughout the day, the prime hours are typically before 9 in the morning and after 4 in the afternoon. Rivers throughout India hold the potential to infuse excitement into the lives of those willing to wield a rod and reel while immersing themselves in the great outdoors. I've also delighted in mahseer fishing along the Song river in northern India.
How to Reach
By Air
Helicopter service is available from Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport, Guwahati to Naharlagun (Itanagar), from there touristhave to avail the roadways to reach Ziro. the booking for air ticket can be done from Guwahati airport itself.
By Train
Train service is available from New Delhi/Guwahati to Naharlagun Via Harmutty(Assam). The nearest railway station to Ziro is Naharlagun. The booking for the train can be done on www.irctc.co.in
By Road
To reach Ziro, headquarter of Lower Subansiri District by roadways from ISBT Guwahati to ISBT Naharlagun by bus, and also there are direct bus available from ISBT Guwahati to Ziro (APST and Network Bus Service). From Naharlagun (Itanagar)/ North Lakhimpur to Ziro by shared Tata Sumo services are available daily.
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